27 bites auf Madeira

I'm just here for the Fish

Madeira, the island of flowers. The island of eternal spring. Europe's Hawaii. Many names, one feeling: wonder.

From the very first glimpse out of the airplane window, it’s clear – Madeira is different. And don’t worry about the infamous landing: pilots here are true experts, smoothly navigating between mountains and the Atlantic.

You won’t find endless sandy beaches here. Instead: dramatic cliffs, lush green slopes, and misty laurel forests that seem pulled from a fairytale.

Madeira is made for explorers. For hikers, food lovers, and nature dreamers. Black sand beaches, mystical forests, and a vast network of levadas (irrigation channels) and trails that crisscross the island. And around every corner? A new surprise.

I was sold the moment I took my first bite of warm Bolo do Caco with garlic butter, and later, when I tasted tender espada (scabbard fish) paired with banana. And yes – Madeira really does feel like Hawaii sometimes. Just closer. And with a spring that never ends.

Classics of the local cuisine:

Madeira’s food is hearty, rustic, and heavily influenced by the sea – but also by its mountains and tropical climate. Seafood plays a starring role, but so do flavorful meat dishes and tropical fruits like banana, passionfruit, and pineapple.

A few local favorites:

Snacks: Bolo do Caco (= flatbread with garlic herb butter), Milho Frito (= fried cornmeal cubes), Lapas Grelhadas (= grilled limpets), Sopa de Tomate e Cebola (= tomato and onion soup with poached egg)

Main Dish: Espada com Banana (= scabbard fish with banana), Espetada (= marinated beef skewers), Carne de Vinha d'Alhos (= Madeiran-style pulled pork), Picado/Picadinho (= cubed beef with fries), ...

Dessert: Queijadas (= cheese pastries), Bolo de Mel (= honey cake), Anona (= custard apple)

Drinks: Poncha (= local spirit with sugarcane liquor, honey, and lemon), Madeira wine (fortified wine), Nikita (beer, pineapple juice, and vanilla ice cream cocktail),...

Before my trip, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. Online research didn’t ignite much excitement – apart from Poncha, Madeira’s cult-favorite sugarcane liquor. But once I arrived? Everything changed.

Madeira isn’t a place for culinary clichés. Restaurants here serve more than meals – they serve a mood.

In Porto Moniz, overlooking rugged lava pools, grilled fish tastes like freedom. In the mountains, surrounded by eucalyptus and laurel trees, a juicy Espetada with red wine becomes a cozy, rustic delight.

You don’t just fall in love with Madeira’s landscapes – you fall in love with its flavors.

For me, fish took center stage. Whether as delicate tuna tartare in a waffle, flambéed with banana, or simply pan-fried with Milho Frito on the side – fish isn’t just eaten here. It’s celebrated.

Madeira tastes as vibrant as it looks. If you love nature, great food, and a touch of adventure – this is an island to experience with all your senses.

• F&B Offer: Food and hospitality are central to Madeiran culture. Thanks to tourism, the island has a high density of restaurants, from casual tavernas (tascas) to fine dining spots.

• Meal Times

  Breakfast (8:00 - 10:30): Simple and fresh. Think Bolo do Caco, fruit, and coffee.

  

  Lunch (12:30 - 15:00): Often the main meal of the day, hearty and satisfying. Snack (16:00 - 18:00): Try Queijadas, Bolo de Mel, or a fresh tropical fruit. Poncha is also a common choice. Dinner (19:00 - 22:00): Lighter than lunch but can still include multiple courses. Favorites include tuna steak, Espetada, or Caldo Verde (green soup).
  

• Value for Money: Life on Madeira is generally affordable compared to many other European destinations. While hotels and rental cars have become more expensive with rising tourism, dining out and public transport remain budget-friendly. Cappuccino in Linz ca. 4,00 EUR Cappuccino in Madeira ca. 3,70 EUR

Worth knowing:

1. Many restaurants close after lunch and reopen for dinner – so if you plan to eat early, check opening hours in advance. Madeiran cuisine isn’t just Portuguese with a twist – it has its own identity rooted in ocean, tropics, and smoky grills.

Hospitality

This is Madeira on a plate. Creative, fresh, and unforgettable. From tuna tartare in a waffle to traditional fish with tomato migas, this place is a masterclass in how innovation and tradition can beautifully coexist. Plus: a great wine list and a team that makes you feel right at home.

Wine lovers, take note! Explore Madeira’s wine heritage with a tasting session in this historic lodge. Pair with local cheese and you've got a perfect afternoon.

Rain happens on Madeira – good hotels, however, are not always a given. We stayed at the Saccharum in the sunnier south and loved it. Stylish, comfortable, and the perfect place to relax when the weather turns.

Rain happens on Madeira – good hotels, however, are not always a given. We stayed at the Saccharum in the sunnier south and loved it. Stylish, comfortable, and the perfect place to relax when the weather turns.

This legendary hotel is a must-see. Even if you don’t stay here, treat yourself to afternoon tea or fine dining at the Michelin-starred William restaurant. Historic charm meets culinary excellence.

Come for the view, stay for the vibe. The food is solid and the scenery is spectacular. One of those places where you’d happily pay extra just for the backdrop.

A healthy, stylish spot in Funchal. Think nourishing bowls, a lovely brunch menu, and clean aesthetics. The service could be a bit more polished, but it’s still a great place to reset between adventures.

Exactly what we were craving after hiking Levada Nova + Levada do Moinho: honest, hearty, local food. My scabbard fish with banana and Milho Frito? Absolutely divine. Strange combo, but perfectly traditional – and just what we needed.

• My conclusion: I came to Madeira for nature – and found so much more. Wild coastlines, outstanding food, quiet levadas, and genuine hospitality. What an island!