I'm just here for the Curry
Sri Lanka is much more than just an island in the Indian Ocean – it is an explosion of colors, flavors, and traditions.
Traveling to this island had been a dream for a long time, and our honeymoon provided the perfect opportunity.
Our travel diary takes you from palm-fringed beaches to the lush tea plantations of the highlands – and the best part? Each destination has its own unique taste.
From spicy seaside curries and exotic fruits on vibrant markets to fragrant Ceylon tea in the mountains – Sri Lanka not only offers breathtaking nature but also a fascinating cuisine.
Get inspired and join me on a culinary journey that will leave you craving more!
Sri Lanka’s Culinary Classics:
Sri Lankan cuisine stands out with its unparalleled diversity and depth of flavors. Every dish is prepared with an array of spices and fresh ingredients, balancing heat and subtlety, spiciness and sweetness. It’s all about the perfect balance and the way dishes complement each other.
Here’s a selection of local delicacies:
Snacks: Pol Roti (coconut flatbread, often served with spicy chutneys), Wade (fried lentil fritters, a popular street snack), Egg Hoppers (rice noodle crêpes with an egg in the center, served with sambol), ...
Main Dishes: Rice & Curry (the national dish featuring various curries made from lentils, fish, jackfruit, vegetables, and meat), Kottu Roti (a spicy mix of chopped flatbread, vegetables, eggs, and optional meat), Fish Ambul Thiyal (a tangy fish dish flavored with goraka, a tropical fruit), ...
Desserts: Wattalappam (coconut milk pudding with palm sugar and spices), Coconut Palm Syrup (thick syrup served with pancakes or pudding), Kevum (fried rice flour and palm sugar donuts), Pani Pol (stuffed coconut pancakes).
Drinks: Ceylon tea, Toddy (a mildly alcoholic drink made from fermented coconut flower sap), coconut water, ...
From the moment we arrived, I was excited for the curries – spicy, aromatic, creamy. But to my surprise, I quickly realized: a curry rarely comes alone. In Sri Lanka, curries are team players and always (!) appear in groups, as if invited to a culinary party. While rice is often the base, Hoppers, String Hoppers, or Roti are just as commonly served to soak up the flavors.
Sri Lankan curries are as diverse as the country’s landscape: creamy dhal curry made from lentils, spicy fish or chicken curry with tamarind and curry leaves, mildly sweet jackfruit curry with a meaty texture, or fruity, tangy mango curry adding a fresh twist.
Accompaniments often include caramelized eggplant with a slight bitterness or Pol Sambol – a spicy coconut mixture that adds an extra burst of flavor.
Unlike in India or Thailand, Sri Lankan curries are usually less liquid. Instead of swimming in a rich sauce, they are often thickened with shredded coconut or coconut milk, giving them a creamy but not overly heavy consistency. Crispy elements like papadam or fried chilies add the perfect contrast and bring texture to the meal.
Traditionally, food is eaten with the hands – the right hand, to be precise. (Although my husband and I always used cutlery.) The different curries are mixed directly on the plate, combined with the fingers, creating a harmony of flavors in every bite. Every meal is an experience – not just filling, but an explosion of taste on the palate.
Eating in Sri Lanka is more than just nourishment – it’s a ritual, an art, and an invitation to discover the country through its flavors.
In Sri Lanka, you rarely eat just one curry – it’s the variety and interplay of dishes that make the experience so unique.
Best Travel Time:
West and South Coast: December to April – ideal for beach vacations.
East and North Coast: May to September – perfect for warm weather with little rain.
Meal Times Breakfast (7:00 - 10:00 AM) Typically includes Hoppers, String Hoppers, fresh fruit, and Kola Kanda – a nutritious green rice porridge with herbs, coconut milk, and jaggery. A cup of Ceylon tea completes the meal. Lunch (12:00 - 2:30 PM) Rice and Curry are the main dishes, often accompanied by dhal, vegetable curries, and fish or meat specialties. The flavors are intense, and the portions generous. Snack (3:00 - 4:30 Uhr): In the afternoon, people enjoy Hoppers, a cup of tea, or sweet snacks like Kevum or Peni Walalu. Dinner (7:30 - 9:00 Uhr): Lighter than lunch, often featuring Kottu Roti, Deviled Dishes, and curries with fresh chutneys.
Price-Performance Ratio: Sri Lanka is a paradise for food lovers on a budget. A simple curry meal often costs less than 5 EUR, and even high-end restaurants offer affordable prices. Cappuccino in Linz ca. 4,00 EUR Cappuccino in Sri Lanka ca. 2,20 EUR
Observation:
In Sri Lanka, people eat often and abundantly! However, obesity is less common compared to Western countries, as traditional diets consist mainly of fresh, unprocessed foods – lots of vegetables, rice, curries, and fish. However, with the increasing availability of fast food and processed foods in cities, a trend toward higher obesity rates has emerged in recent years.
First Stop: Colombo
Colombo, our first stop – not a city renowned for exceptional coffee. But I wanted to find out for myself and ended up at Grind Coffee, a modern café serving the finest latte art and great food – at half the price compared to Europe. A small piece of familiar coffee culture in the midst of the tropical capital.
After this perfect start, we dived into the vibrant streets of Colombo – a city where colonial architecture meets modern skyscrapers, and the aroma of spices fills the air. Between bustling markets, steaming Hoppers, and aromatic curries, it quickly became clear: this was not just the beginning of our trip but also a culinary adventure leading from the coast to the highlands.
Our culinary journey in Sri Lanka began at The Gallery Café – a place renowned not only for its excellent food but also for its stylish ambiance. In a beautiful courtyard surrounded by art, I enjoyed my first authentic Sri Lankan curry: fish in a flavorful mustard sauce.
An absolute gem! The Grand Bell impressed with a stunning infinity pool offering a perfect view over the city and a price-performance ratio that’s hard to beat. Location, amenities, and service? Top-notch! The staff was incredibly warm, the rooms modern and comfortable – a perfect place to unwind after the hustle and bustle of Colombo. If you're looking for a stylish stay with a touch of luxury at a fair price, this is the place to be!
Second Stop: Kandy
What’s a must on every trip? A cooking class! In Kandy, we were lucky to be welcomed by Malika and her mother – an experience I can highly recommend. In a warm, family-like atmosphere, we prepared eight different traditional recipes together and learned so much about Sri Lankan cuisine.
From curry pastes to the perfect spice combinations – after this class, we felt like absolute pros in Sri Lankan cooking. And the best part? It wasn’t just educational, but also incredibly delicious!
Our second stop took us to Kandy, a city known for its colonial architecture, the famous Temple of the Tooth, and its lush, hilly surroundings.
We explored the highlights by tuk-tuk, but the real highlight was waiting on our plate: Banana Chill Café.
Here, Sri Lankan fusion cuisine meets a laid-back atmosphere and outstanding service. Particularly impressive: the wide selection of vegan dishes – creative, authentic, and incredibly affordable.
If you're looking for modern, fresh interpretations of Sri Lankan cuisine, this is the place to be!
The moment you step into the lobby, a spontaneous "Wow" escapes your lips – and rightfully so. The infinity pool on the rooftop terrace offers a breathtaking view over Kandy, making this hotel a true gem.
Even if you're staying elsewhere, you can still enjoy the stylish ambiance, as the hotel features an excellent café. However, the prices are more on the Western side – but the stunning view and relaxed atmosphere make it well worth a visit for a little break.
Third Stop: Hatton
Even without specific restaurant or hotel recommendations, Hatton is an absolute must-visit. The landscape, nestled within endless tea plantations, is among the most stunning I’ve ever seen. A place that radiates tranquility while exuding its own unique magic.
Stopping here is especially worthwhile if you're traveling by train from Kandy to the highlands. The route is breathtaking but long – making Hatton a perfect stopover to fully take in the surroundings without rushing through the journey. A place to breathe, marvel, and simply enjoy!
Fourth Stop: Ella
Ella is undoubtedly one of the most popular stops in Sri Lanka – and rightfully so. From spectacular hikes through the mountains to a vibrant nightlife, the town offers endless possibilities for travelers. Our personal highlight? 98 Acres Resort & Spa – a little paradise and a truly special gift for our honeymoon.
From the moment you arrive, you feel at home: waking up to lush tea plantation views, rolling your bed onto the balcony (yes, that’s actually possible!), or unwinding in a hanging swing over the valley – it’s the perfect place to relax and recharge. But be warned: the hotel has only a few rooms and is booked out months in advance – so reserving early is definitely worth it!
If you're in Ella, make sure not to miss the Soul Café. The location? Unbeatable! From here, you get the best view of the famous 9 Arches Bridge – without the crowds.
It's the perfect spot for a break: coffee for around €2, meals under €5, and a laid-back atmosphere. We were lucky to be there at just the right moment and watched a train pass by – a truly magical sight you won’t want to miss!
Fifth Stopp: Udawalawe
A safari is definitely one of the experiences you shouldn’t miss in Sri Lanka. You have the choice between Yala and Udawalawe National Park – we opted for Udawalawe, and it did not disappoint. But what left an even stronger impression than the safari itself? Our stay at Waraka.
This relaxed hotel, nestled in the heart of nature, was an absolute surprise – especially because of the best and most abundant Sri Lankan breakfast we had on our entire trip. Just for this culinary highlight, it’s worth spending a night here and starting your morning by the pool in complete tranquility.
Sixth Stop: Dikwelle / Tangalle
Sri Lanka’s coastline is filled with countless stunning spots, but the big question is: Where to stay and for how long? Strategically, we started near Dikwella / Tangalle and slowly made our way up towards Galle. While we couldn’t pick just one favorite place, we did discover some hotels and restaurants that made our journey unforgettable.
A real highlight was our room at Ocean Eye – no ocean view, but a jungle oasis created by two Europeans with an impressive eye for design.
The place is breathtakingly beautiful, but not for travel snobs like my husband: no hot water, no windows, and basically no internet (as of February 2025) – but in return, you get pure nature, stunning architecture, and an incredibly fair price-performance ratio. If you love minimalism and a deep connection to nature, this place is an absolute gem!
The Surf Lodge Madiha is more than just a cool place to stay – you can even go ice bathing here! It seems like this trend is gaining popularity in Sri Lanka as well. The prices are fair, the atmosphere is relaxed, and if you're looking for a unique culinary experience, you absolutely have to try the Pink Hoppers.
Smoke & Bitters is one of the most famous (and priciest) restaurants in Sri Lanka. While I’ve had better food elsewhere, I’d still recommend it – but for a completely different reason: the cocktails!
Forget standard drinks – here, you’ll find expertly crafted, one-of-a-kind creations that truly stand out. The laid-back atmosphere makes it a perfect spot to watch the sunset. But be warned: Reservations are a must! The hype is real, and without one, getting a table can be tricky.
Seventh Stop: Ahangama
It doesn't get much better than this! In Ahangama, we had an absolute dream stay at The Hotel – topped off with a honeymoon upgrade.
The ocean view? Perfect. The design? Exactly our style. We were even tempted to cancel all our plans just to fully enjoy our stunning room.
The only downside? The hotel’s restaurant – pricey dishes and slightly slow service took away from the otherwise flawless experience. But if that doesn’t bother you, this place is an unbeatable retreat!
Ahangama isn’t just known for its stunning beaches but also for its stylish cafés and excellent food. Not far from our hotel, we discovered The Kip, a charming restaurant (& boutique stay) with fantastic all-day brunch options. While it’s clear that southern Sri Lanka is adapting more and more to European tastes, The Kip still stands out. It’s not just about fancy avocado toast – here, you’ll find creative, beautifully crafted dishes made with great attention to detail. A perfect spot for those who love to slow down and enjoy high-quality, thoughtful cuisine.
Craving great coffee with an unbeatable view? In Ahangama, stylish cafés seem to be everywhere, but this particular spot had something special: a breathtaking ocean view and direct beach access.
After a quick coffee break with exceptional brews, we took one step down – straight into the sea. A perfect combination of relaxed indulgence and a spontaneous cool-down. If you’re looking for delicious food and a laid-back beach vibe, Ahangama is the place to be!
Eighth Stop: Unawatuna
Our final stop took us to Unawatuna, a charming little town.
While no hotel here truly won me over, it’s still worth a visit – especially for its laid-back atmosphere and fantastic food spots.
A real highlight was our evening at The Hideout, particularly on a Tuesday – because it’s Taco Tuesday! Perfect for those who need a short break from local cuisine. Though, to be fair, the jackfruit taco is a must – bringing together the best of both worlds. Add in delicious drinks, a relaxed vibe, and it was the perfect way to wrap up our journey!
My Conclusion: I came to Sri Lanka to discover the magic of curries. But what truly captivated me was the depth of flavors, the warmth of the people, and the feeling that every meal tells a story.
Note: My stay, including accommodation, entrance fees, and food, was self-funded. My recommendations and tips reflect my own experiences, and this article is not part of any collaboration.
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