27 bites in Southern Styria

I'm just here for the Kürbiskernöl

We often chase what’s far away: different countries, different cuisines, different wine regions. The farther, the better – or so it seemed.

But a trip back home changed my perspective: “Why travel so far when beauty is so close?”

So instead of heading to France, the Douro Valley, or South Africa, we set our sights on Southern Styria, exploring the legendary Südsteirische Weinstraße. And we weren’t disappointed.

Wine, as honest and pure as it gets. Food that nourishes not just the body, but the soul.A landscape that feels like the Tuscan hills – just with fewer crowds and more authenticity.

Classics of the local cuisine:

While much of Austria is known for hearty tavern fare like pork roast, dumplings, and cheese noodles, Southern Styria takes a different approach. The food here is lighter, more aromatic, and pairs beautifully with local wines.

Instead of traditional inns, Buschenschanken shape the culinary identity – family-run wine taverns steeped in tradition, yet open to modern touches.

Here’s a taste of what to expect:

Starters: Brettljause with smoked meats, cheeses, spreads & farmhouse bread, Käferbohnen salad (local beans) with onions & pumpkin seed oil, Homemade spreads like Liptauer, pumpkin seed, or egg spread, ...

Main courses: Styrian fried chicken with potato salad & Kernöl, Clear beef broth with semolina or liver dumplings, Kübelfleisch (cold pork cuts) with horseradish & bread, Polenta with mushroom ragout or smoked meat, ...

Desserts: Fried farmer’s donuts with apricot compote, Curd strudel or apple strudel with whipped cream, Vanilla ice cream with pumpkin seed oil & roasted seeds, ...

Drinks: Sauvignon Blanc, Gelber Muskateller, Welschriesling, Seasonal Sturm (young wine), fresh grape juice, or cider, Local schnaps and liqueurs, ..

No Real Styrian Snack Without Pumpkin Seed Oil

A wooden board, a few slices of farmhouse bread, Käferbohnen with onions, some cheese and cured meat, a touch of horseradish – and always, Pumpkin Seed Oil.

This dark green oil is the soul of a Styrian Jause – poured over, mixed in, or simply served alongside.

What fascinates me is its versatility.

Pumpkin seed oil doesn’t play by rigid rules. It’s grounded in tradition, yet invites interpretation.

A few drops on vanilla ice cream? Sounds strange, tastes divine.

A drizzle in a curd mousse? Adds depth without stealing the spotlight.

It’s pure Styria – rooted, honest, and endlessly creative. One spoonful, and you know: you’re in Southern Styria.

• F&B Offer: Buschenschanken are a must – they’re the culinary heartbeat of the region. Expect unpretentious atmosphere, homemade food, and wine made just a few meters from your table.
  

• Value for money: Southern Styria isn’t the cheapest – especially when it comes to boutique hotels and fine dining.
  

  • Cappuccino in Amsterdam: ~€4

  • Cappuccino in Styria’s wine country: €3.90–€4.50

Striking on site:

1. Many Buschenschanken and wineries are family-run, often for generations. You’ll meet the winemakers in the kitchen or behind the wine barrel – warm, authentic, and unfiltered.

2. Whether young or old, most visitors explore the wine road by E-bike. The rolling hills invite relaxed, scenic cycling – more pleasure than power.

3. Despite its popularity, the region never feels overcrowded. Even in high season, you’ll find quiet spots with panoramic views – a true hidden gem that stayed under the radar.

Hospitality

If you want to know why people call Southern Styria “the Tuscany of Austria,” you’ll understand it here – only more down-to-earth, more welcoming, and closer to real life.

Nestled in the heart of the wine region, Ratscher Landhaus offers joy on every level:

• Wines from neighboring vineyards

• Seasonal, creative cuisine inspired by local roots

• A small but beautiful spa area overlooking the vineyards

We visited in June – perfect timing: warm days, blooming hillsides, glowing vines. The hotel was lively but never crowded. Just the right balance between privacy and atmosphere. The kind of place you stay a little longer. And definitely come back to.

Southern Styria is more than just great wine – it’s a region committed to sustainable farming and living with the land.

Johannes Firmenich took over his family’s winery in Ehrenhausen and shifted fully to organic practices. His wines are shaped by soil, climate, and intuition – crafted with patience and passion. A proud representative of the new generation of Styrian winemakers.

Getting married among the vines might sound kitschy – but it’s also stunning. We considered several wine regions for our own wedding, and Southern Styria was high on the list.

Many wineries, like Weingut Holler, offer picture-perfect backdrops: from vineyard ceremonies to chic receptions in converted press houses. Dreamy without the drama. Rustic, elegant, and real.

Whether it’s spring salad with bacon & potatoes, Styrian char, or elderberry compote with salted coconut ice cream – the Wirtshaus at Weinbank serves grounded cuisine with a fine twist.

There’s no fuss, no frills – just thoughtful dishes, regionally rooted and full of flavor.If you’re in the area: go. For the food, the wine, and the quiet confidence that great cooking needs no spotlight.

How do you choose among all the charming Buschenschanken? Truth is – you rarely go wrong. But sometimes, you’re blown away.

For me, that moment happened at Rebkogl. You assemble your own Picknick-Kisterl – full of homemade Styrian specialties, fresh bread, and a good bottle of wine – and head out to find your perfect spot.A patch of grass, a panoramic view, the taste of nature – and suddenly, the world slows down.

That’s what Southern Styria tastes like.

• My conclusion: I came to unplug. I left with a deep appreciation for a simpler, more grounded way of life. And the kind of views that linger long after the last glass is empty.
  

Disclaimer: Some of the visits mentioned took place as part of collaborations with selected local businesses who kindly hosted me on site.